Hello everyone and welcome back to my channel! In today’s video, we’re going to wrap up our Medieval Tailor’s Assistant #basicgarb series with the sideless surcote. This piece completes the set of early to mid-14th century clothing, starting with the smock, followed by the kirtle, and now the surcote.
Since the surcote fits over the kirtle, we’ll start with the pattern from the Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, making necessary adjustments based on the book’s images. After creating the pattern, I began cutting out the fabric, yielding four pieces from about three and a half to four yards of 42-inch wide material.
Next, I basted the seams and tested the fit, making minor adjustments to the side and front seams for an optimal fit. Then, I sewed the body and shoulder seams, opting for hand finishing as in the previous videos of this series, as I prefer its aesthetic. For a polished finish, I graded the seam allowance and hand-felled the inside seams, ensuring everything was felled in the same direction.
Finally, I tackled the neckline, armholes, and hem. After serging the hem, I folded the edges twice and hand-felled them, completing the surcote with a small train in the back.