Before hitting the waves, ensure you have the right conditions. Avoid choppy waters, offshore winds, and big waves. Start with small, 1-2 foot waves. Secure your leash and head out, facing the waves head-on. When you’re stable on your board, paddle forward on your knees. Once you have momentum, stand up. If you lose balance, crouch down and regain stability. Keep a safe distance from other surfers and beachgoers.
When you’re far enough out, relax and orientate your board towards the waves. Position yourself not too far out or too close in. Keep your eyes on the approaching wave and start paddling with strong, even strokes. As the wave carries you forward, switch to a surf stance. Maintain balance by skimming your paddle across the water. Keep your weight on your back foot and use steady forward strokes to match the wave’s speed.
To catch the wave, paddle hard, maintain a neutral stance, and switch sides with your paddle to maintain a straight course. Once the wave starts carrying you forward, switch to a surf stance. Stay in front of the wave and use your paddle for stability. Remember to keep your weight on your back foot and use your paddle to pick up speed.